Allen Meadows - Score: 93-96 (2017 January)

Discreet but not invisible wood serves as a backdrop for the airy, ripe and very pure red and dark cherry, earth and wonderfully broad-ranging spice notes. There is terrific punch to the big, robust, tautly structured and well-muscled flavors that ooze with minerality and buckets of mid-palate sap that buffers the prominent tannic spine on the youthfully austere finish. This massively long effort should age glacially but gracefully for several decades.